Leaving the Ashram

One night at the ashram, in the health hut also known as the ‘club’, the topic of traveling after the Ashram came up and I quickly came to realized that I had only a month left to see the rest of India. I had loved my time at the Ashram but knew that if I didn’t go to northern India now it would be something I would forever regret; with that I decided it was time to take with me all I had learnt and continue on my journey.

Kovalam, which notoriously holds the title for India’s most developed resort, was my first stop. Originally I planned to stay only one night here and take the next train to Bangalore but when I tried to book I found out there were no trains available until Monday. I went out in search of a new room, with hopes of honing my bargaining skills, as the one I was staying in was cheap but falling apart (I was paying 300rs per night for a double room with attached bathroom). A guest house less than a minute walk away was my first stop; they had slightly better rooms for 300rs, but I wasn’t sure if it was worth the effort of moving. After seeing two more rooms and knowing that they needed the business I asked to see their nicest room. It was amazing, a spacious room with cable tv, soft double bed, a mini fridge, private balcony, huge bathroom with a hot water shower, and stairs that lead above my room to a little personal rooftop space; only problem was they wanted 500-600rs per night for it. I offered 300rs per night, what I was paying at my current hotel, at which point they kindly rejected. I thanked them and started to walk away when she shouted “wait, wait.. best offer?”. I knew they weren’t going to get someone to fill the room for the night so I offered 1,000rs($20) for three nights (the first night free then 500rs for both the other nights), and with that I checked into the nicest cheap room I’ve found yet.

Side note to the picture: When I was leaving Kovalam I decided that it was time I threw away a large portion of what I was carrying with me. I’ve accumulated a lot of things, especially clothing, since I first arrived to India. So with the advice I had received from a Swami (similar to a monk) at the ashram I gave away roughly half of what I was carrying to children and anyone else who could use what I no longer needed. There is also an eight kilogram parcel on its way home, but it could be a while before it actually arrives.

Review: EverShine Guest House in Anjuna, Goa, India

Fascinating people, everlasting memories

After finding this guest house on Hostel world I booked a weeks stay online before leaving Mumbai for Goa. I ended up staying for quite a bit longer than I originally planned, but that seems to be a common habit for those staying at the hostel.

As soon as I arrived I was greeted by a group of backpackers on the porch and the owner, Sebastianna, who is without a doubt one of the nicest hostel owners I've ever meet. Within 5 mins after arriving I was already off on the back of a scooter of a fellow I had just met to one of the near by beaches.

The hostel is kept surprising clean, especially for India. The guest house offers several private rooms with their own bathroom then a few dorm style rooms that share two common bathrooms.

All the necessities are within walking distance, as is the local beach which goes on for several miles. Scooters, along with anything else you could think of, are available for rent through the owner for reasonable prices.

Prices at the time I stayed (Sept-Oct 2010)
- Scooter rentals 150-200rs/day
- Tours (including car&driver) 150rs-500rs/person/day
- WiFi Internet 100rs/day
- Private rooms 260-400rs/day, Dorms 150rs/day (both vary with the seasons)

Day 0: Arriving in Mumbai

The journey to India was a long one, but atleast it was filled with some interesting people and moments. I met a couple in their 80's who were traveling from Minneapolis to Venice (Italy) where they first met. On the way to Amsterdam I sat beside a fellow who works for Porsche, we shared many interesting conversations during that 8 hour flight. Once I arrived in Amsterdam i was exhausted. I had barley slept the night before I left but didn't want to sleep now, that had to wait till Mumbai. Within a couple hours after my arrival in Amsterdam my flight to Mumbai started boarding.. I was the only western in slight. Before letting me on the plane they pulled me aside and started questioning me. Why was i traveling alone? where was I staying? Why was i sweating? For that last one I simply told him I was Canadian and found it oddly warm there. He then proceeded to take all my debit and creditcards then went off to consult with his coworker. They would talk, stop, then look over their shoulders at me before asking me more questions. They finally proceeded to let me though, after a full 360 degree ex-ray scan. (also, I have been physically searched at every airport including Saskatoons, what up with that?)

My flight to Mumbai was my first culture shock. Luckily I was seated with an Indian women, my age, who was very helpful in walking me through how to eat all the ethnic food they served during the flight.

Basic room @ Hotel New Bengal, 775rs.($18/night)

I arrive in Mumbai with the notion that everyone is going to scam me in some way. I got a prepaid taxi to my hotel, the actual ride will have to be saved for another time. The hotel was somewhat disappointing at first. Clean, by Indian standards, but very basic. There are no bugs, but my walls are made of plywood. (and as i am typing this there goes the power.. again..)

Umm, caging at the top for ventilation? 

At the time of writing 'day-0' in my paper-form journal I was disappointed by Mumbai. As much as I first questioned why I would come to India i'm glad to know that has changed by the first 'real' day. (more on that next post)

Planning my arrival in Mumbai

Warning: I tend to use the term 'planning' in a very vague sense.

I recently planned my arrival in Mumbai. By 'planning my arrival' I mean to say 'I booked a hostel for my first two nights in the city'. This might not seem like much planning for a three month trip in a foriegn country, but it's a nice break in routine for myself. My flight will touch down late into the night on September 14th, by the time I get through customs and exit the airport it will probably be 3am.

A small glimpse of the famous Crawford Market.

When booking my hostel they offered an airport pick up, warning me that I will most likely be tired and confused with considerable jet lag. Although this sounded pleasant, I had to decline. The prospect of an wild adventure from the airport in a cheap, and possibly crazy, taxi seems like a warm welcome to India.

My room? A simple double bed room, common bathroom, with a desk and lamp, all squeezed into a tiny room beside one of the busiest markets in Mumbai for 775rs($18).